[Billet vins] Of wines and days
The winegrowers, at least the ones I know, test wine every day. Seven days a week. And you who are not winegrowers? No doubt arrange your days like your wines according to their profiles or their own sensitivities. I was doing the exercise this week of clearing my own weekly calendar while rejoicing in advance that it will be completely renewed next week. Let’s see if we meet somewhere!
Monday. What piss-vinegar got it into his head that it wasn’t proper to drink a glass of wine on Monday night? Certainly not the nostalgic ones still under the delicious influence of weekend feasts! So let’s offer a light, fresh, flowing and why not natural wine, like this singular and very old Pais grape variety, which requires no more and no less than a ladder to pick it up high. This is the case of this Country Salvaje 2020 by Bouchon ($24.65 – 14946711), a captivating Chilean red with the freshness of its light rustic tannins and its clean taste of dried red fruits and licorice. Serve chilled on your homemade ketchup shepherd’s pie. (5) ★★ 1/2. A spicier option? Clos des Fous 2021, Itata, Chile ($19.35 – 12797686 – (5) © ★★★).
Tuesday. We don’t shake anything up in this 2e day while remaining classic, but above all digestible. the Bordeaux 2018 by Christian Moueix ($17.15 – 13734337) assures you all the textural comfort of its Merlots without ever weighing down stomachs or leading minds. It’s only Tuesday after all! (5) ★★★. A bushier option? Chateau Grand Bouchon 2016, Medoc ($23.35 – 14334888 – (5) ★★ 1/2).
Wednesday. We may not be under the tension of the Heiligenstein vintage in Riesling, but this Grüner Veltliner “Kammern” 2017 Austrian Weingut Hirsch ($27.80 – 11695055) in Kamptal, northwest of the Danube, still shares its mineral spirit. A nice full-bodied organic dry white that “resets” the week with its delicious and savory texture, generous and optimistic for the future. The tuna tartare will be grateful (5) ★★★ 1/2. An option in red? Blaufränkisch 2021, Krutzler, Austria ($22.20 – 12411042 – (5) ★★★).
Thursday.At home, Thursday is obviously… pasta ! And of course also, it’s my girlfriend who is in the kitchen, integrating the acidity of the San Marzano tomatoes with the spicy sausage meat to enhance the delicious acidity. That’s when I put my grain of salt with the sangiovese from the Tenuta San Jacopo 2020 in Chianti Superiore ($20.40 – 13465878) to reveal the marriage of heart and reason. Suppleness, vivacity and fruity to bite into, in a playful tone. Yum ! (5) ★★★. A character option? Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2020, Planeta, Sicily ($25.45 – 10553362 – (5) ★★★).
Friday. The three days that follow command an aperitif, before moving on to a beautiful red. It’s written in the sky, where the bubbles of this raw gold miner ($30.50 – 12685625) shine insistently, that the evening promises to be lively and deliciously fruity. Already, tone and vigor are there on a generously provided whole where the ripe apple plays beautiful chords on the finish (5) ★★★. Another possibility, subtle in depth? Château Le Puy “Émilien” 2019, Vin de France ($34 – 709469 – (10+) © ★★★ 1/2).
Saturday. The 5 p.m. social lubricant effectively oils its proposals with this genius aperitif, whose delicate freshness and saline tone launch the first salvo of the evening on your favorite tapas. The Spanish house Lustau draws its ammunition in this sense by offering a well refreshed Manzanilla Papirusa ($14.55 for 375 ml – 11767565), whose biting character will lull your Andalusian daydreams. The fresh and structured option? Mas Collet 2020, Capçanes, Montsant, Spain ($20.15 – 642538 – (5+) © ★★★).
Sunday. Brunch or big night, while the seafood timbales are busy fueling the conversations? This Champagne Gosset Brut Grande Reserve ($75.75 – 10839619) stands out as a matter of course, with its fine fruity laminate, its delicate but persuasive tension suggested by the Chardonnays, as well as its detailed, precise, articulate and citrusy perspective. It looks like the beautiful sundays with Henry Bergeron! (5+) ★★★★. An option that is both racy and high in flavor? Morgon “Cuvée Corcelette” 2020, Jean Foillard, Beaujolais, France ($49.75 – 12201643 – (5+) © ★★★★).
Explanation of odds
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