Go, who Really Do you want a sharp shoe? Would you like your feet to look like a Dorito? Would your toes even get there?
I am not convinced. Peter Copping, the artistic director of Lanvin, however. During the Lanvin parade in Paris last week, Mr. Copping sent male models in pointed shoes after sharp shoes, such as a cavalcade of guys auditioning to play the wicked witch of the west.
In Lanvin, the Pointe de Pointe shoes have put a good point on a male collection that made me ask myself again, “Who is it?” A leather t-shirt hanging on the elbow; a parka with a funnel collar that surrounded the waist; Jean The color of non -ripe kiwis – ideas that confused more than forced.
“Has anyone stopped and wondered who would buy these clothes?” was the question I asked by asking when I clicked on the images of Milan and Paris programs. Although they are weeks of fashion for women, a number of brands sprinkled in male creations.
Some designers will say that male and female lines share enough DNA to justify being shown on the same tracks. However, I suspect that many brands combine these collections as an economy measure. Unfortunately, this means that men’s clothes often feel like a reflection afterwards.
This feeling was particularly true for labels like Valentino, which often presented women’s clothing on their male Waifish models. I am not sure that many retailers will not be close to distribute the budgets of their men to licou yellow -free licou, transparent shirts and Turacian blouses. Genre can be a porous concept in haute couture, but commercial realities remain.
Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Valentino who was previously in Gucci, for a long time interpreted these female mystical magic tips for male buyers. Just as you know, the rabbit will end up getting out of the hat, you can also bet that transparent blouses will arrive on the male models of Mr. Michele at some point. These movements no longer have the power to surprise.
Haider Ackermann, who, during his second season, settled as creative director at Tom Ford, demonstrated that he knew more than sufficient on the design of costumes, if not subversive, then at least deviant.
Cut from the body, with majestic shoulders and pointed loss, its flamingo and aqua green pink costumes were kicky and lalysed. When associated with collar shirts and hijacking buttoned in the chest, they were downright sexy, a word difficult to use without feeling teeth, but which applies here.
Mr. Ackermann did not offer the basic shock of the skin but clothes that played in a attractive way with our attention, hiding the carrier here but catching the eye there. Take the looks of looks in the center of the show: two men, with sweaters at the top and practically translucent swimming trunks below, their underwear taking a look at the perimeter. Here, sexuality was advanced and retained at the same time.
Sex is suspended in the air in the Versace Show in Milan, where the guests have passed a bed without control with the real leaves of designer Dario Vitale. (Mr. Vitale made his debut as creative director, the first non-versace to lead the brand’s design studio.)
The models of the models were cleaned on the side for a half-door display, and a number of men wore pants that swarmed in the crotch. Brazy and not at all shy, Versace Way.
These are the colors that made it a show that deserves to be recalled. In a moment of maximum beige and Greige, Mr. Vitale splashed in a cartoon plot, with lavender denim and his shirts in yellow and mint green yellow. All very disco-meets-art-deco. A rotation of striped jeans was like portable circus tents. The real star was the outfit of a drop shoulder bomber, pleated pants and almond -shaped moccasins. It was a relaxed silhouette that we saw several times, but in the hands of Mr. Vitale, the bomber was Sarcelle, the purple pants and the shirt under corn blue. In these colors of Dick Tracy, the outfit was revolutionary.
The other Milanese beginnings to leave a brand were Jil Sander, where Simone Bellotti (at the end of Bally) seemed to handle a scalpel, not a sewing kit. Its gray combinations with four ends, its leather blazers with oil wells and its graphite topin layers have brandished as demanding lifts as military haircuts and shoulder slopes which, to exaggerate slightly, must have been calculated by a mathematician educated in Harvard. His is not a cold minimalism; It’s cunning.
I kept coming back and zooming on a leather overcoat, its navy blue shade as bright as the freshly mixed paint. A look, a too white blazer, razory gray pants and black shoes, turned out to be kitsch, like a master’s outfit V. Best of all, well apart from the two -eyed laces that were like a pair of wallabes Clarks reinvented by Constantin Brâncuși, the Clark Cumbe Cobalt Blue Jeans. The most idealized jeans are still worth investing.
Back in Paris, Michael Rider was in his second season as creative director at Celine. I am still not convinced that Mr. Rider is as sure in the design for men as for women, but there was more for male buyers to covet this time. His rugby shirts in silk the sailing size, in particular, will sell. I was also won over by the bizarre proportions of a look that combined the Kakis, pleated like a curtain, with a knitting tie and a sports coat with the shoulders. The model looked like a schoolboy of reform lost in Rocky Horror World, reading as an ironic comment on the perpetual “preparation” in which we always seem to idle.
You know who absolutely asks if men Really Do you want that? Miuccia Prada. Its Miu Miu label is firmly planted in its period of updated work clothes – varieties of blue collar and white passes. For men at least, Miu Miu remains the flag holder of Luxury Normcore.
That works. During the weeks of fashion, the streets of Milan and Paris are strewn with types of industry in the Miu Miu Miu and the Blue Polds of the Company. He also made the label a brilliant star in Prada’s business portfolio.
This season, Ms. Prada continued to exploit the egalitarian polo shirt, unrolling polo shirts with firm colos as wide as football jerseys, sweaters and gray V -collar belts with tied key rings, as well as a concierge could bring to a marriage. (The aprons that have been superimposed on many looks, an supposed comment on class tensions which swirl on the perimeter of the fashion world, can have been well intentioned but which was just distracting.)
However, in this inflationary moment of luxury fashion, it is one thing for consumers to desire one design, it is another for them to be able to reach it. Prosaic although some of these Miu Miu pieces can appear, the prices will be intestinal. This aforementioned fleece? It’s $ 2,450. Perhaps the question that the fashion industry should arise is not the men who wish, but can they afford it even if they do it?
